Thursday, March 27, 2008
Scrapbooking Freebies: How to Find Scrapbooking Stuff for Free Online
Scrapbooking is an important and unique art form, and one in which people are particularly willing to share. That means you can easily find lots of scrapbooking freebies. Here are six easy ways to find free scrapbooking stuff online. 1. Scrapbooking websites. Keep a folder in your favorites file and bookmark the websites of all of your favorite print scrapbooking magazines. Subscribe to their free email newsletters, and if your favorite scrapbooking designers or manufacturers have a blog, make sure to subscribe to the RSS feed. The creativity and free ideas that come from these sites is really amazing. Some of the best scrapbooking freebies are simply designs, sketches, and layouts. The websites of Creating Keepsakes and PaperCrafts are particularly useful for free scrapbooking ideas and step-by-step project instructions. Some of the other popular scrapbooking websites (twopeasinabucket.com and scrapjazz.com for example) feature a variety of ideas for numerous paper projects, from 12x12 albums to altered art, as well as quotes and sayings. Many of these websites offer free tutorials in both basic and advanced techniques, as well. 2. Free fonts and graphics. A simple Internet search for "free fonts" will turn up thousands of different choices that you can easily download into your computer for your scrapbooking use. With graphics and fonts that you find online, make sure that the files are royalty free and that you have permission to download them for your personal use. 3. Free photo prints. Many of the photo processing websites will reward your continuing loyalty to them with deeply discounted prints or free prints. Shop around for special coupons or loyalty offers before ordering. 4. Printable Scrapbooking Stuff. Do another Internet search for "free printable scrapbooking." You'll find lots of different patterns, images, and designs that you can simply print on the paper of your choice and use in your books and other papercrafting projects. 5. Digital Scrapbooking Freebies. ComputerScrapbook.com has a nice collection of free digital samplers. Go to the main page of the website and click "free stuff" for today's selection. 6. Free Poems and Quotes. The Internet is filled with wise snippets that you can use in your scrapbooks, mini albums, and card making projects. Keep a small notebook handy for jotting down great scrapbooking quotes that you come across. I also have a special folder for quotes in my email software, as well as on my desktop. Someday, my quote book will be like a scrapbook in itself. There really is a wealth of free information online for scrapbookers. When you find something you like, make sure to share it with your scrapbooking friends and ask them to do the same.Jamie Jefferson writes for http://www.susies-coupons.com where you can find the latest Camera Coupons: http://www.susies-coupons.com/camera.htm as well as coupons for printers and camera accessories: http://www.susies-coupons.com/ko.htm
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Beading Tips - For Easy And Fun Beading Projects
Beading is a great way to let your creative side out. And some beading projects are very easy. You can easily make your own beaded necklace, bracelet or earrings. Here are several important tips for beginner beaders that will help you avoid common mistakes and make your beading projects easier and more fun.
Space your beads
Some types of beads especially semi-precious, Swarovski, glass and pearl beads require a spacer between them. You have two options - make a simple knot between your beads, or insert a decorative spacer. I prefer spacers, because they make the design more interesting. It is best to use silver or gold spacers with expensive beads - they won't loose the shine as they age.
Use a beading board
Before putting your beads on a wire lay them out on a jewelry layout board. You can buy these boards in any shop that sells, craft supplies, beads and beading tools. The board lets you see, how your design will work before you connect everything. If you don't have a board, use a plain light bath towel, so your beads don't scatter.
Don't let your beads roll
Even if you use a beading board, it is a good idea to cover the table you work on with a towel. Beads rolling all over the table can drive you crazy, but a towel will prevent it. Also, if you have a cat, cover your work with another towel, if you leave even for a few minutes. My cat can destroy hours of work in less then 30 seconds.
Cut enough string
If you are going to use knots, then cut the string 4 times longer than finished project plus a few extra inches, otherwise 2 times longer. Also you can fold your string twice or even four times, to make it stronger. This is particularly true if you use heavy glass beads and large beads.
String color is important
Your don't always have to use white string, buy a string that matches the color of your beads for this project. If you can't find a string in that particular shade, take a white one and dye it, any permanent marker would do the job.
Be careful - strings stretch
In my first beaded necklaces I always had this problem - you finish a necklace, than after a day of wearing it the string stretches and beads are no longer tight together, looks awful. To avoid this, after all the beads are on, hang your necklace for a day or so, than do the final knotting or attach clasps.
Secure the ends
Final knots are important, it is best to use square knots and tighten them firmly. Then apply some jewelers glue to your knots and only after that cut the loose ends
Be kind to your eyes
Beading for several hours can give you a bad eye strain, especially if you are working with seed beads. So always have a good light on, a desk lamp is best. Another useful tool would be a magnifying glass. It will also help keep your project neat and avoid small mistakes.
Happy beading!
Tatyana Turner is a publisher of Beading Patterns.com. Visit http://www.beading-patterns.org/ to find free beading patterns, beading designs, idas and tutorials
Space your beads
Some types of beads especially semi-precious, Swarovski, glass and pearl beads require a spacer between them. You have two options - make a simple knot between your beads, or insert a decorative spacer. I prefer spacers, because they make the design more interesting. It is best to use silver or gold spacers with expensive beads - they won't loose the shine as they age.
Use a beading board
Before putting your beads on a wire lay them out on a jewelry layout board. You can buy these boards in any shop that sells, craft supplies, beads and beading tools. The board lets you see, how your design will work before you connect everything. If you don't have a board, use a plain light bath towel, so your beads don't scatter.
Don't let your beads roll
Even if you use a beading board, it is a good idea to cover the table you work on with a towel. Beads rolling all over the table can drive you crazy, but a towel will prevent it. Also, if you have a cat, cover your work with another towel, if you leave even for a few minutes. My cat can destroy hours of work in less then 30 seconds.
Cut enough string
If you are going to use knots, then cut the string 4 times longer than finished project plus a few extra inches, otherwise 2 times longer. Also you can fold your string twice or even four times, to make it stronger. This is particularly true if you use heavy glass beads and large beads.
String color is important
Your don't always have to use white string, buy a string that matches the color of your beads for this project. If you can't find a string in that particular shade, take a white one and dye it, any permanent marker would do the job.
Be careful - strings stretch
In my first beaded necklaces I always had this problem - you finish a necklace, than after a day of wearing it the string stretches and beads are no longer tight together, looks awful. To avoid this, after all the beads are on, hang your necklace for a day or so, than do the final knotting or attach clasps.
Secure the ends
Final knots are important, it is best to use square knots and tighten them firmly. Then apply some jewelers glue to your knots and only after that cut the loose ends
Be kind to your eyes
Beading for several hours can give you a bad eye strain, especially if you are working with seed beads. So always have a good light on, a desk lamp is best. Another useful tool would be a magnifying glass. It will also help keep your project neat and avoid small mistakes.
Happy beading!
Tatyana Turner is a publisher of Beading Patterns.com. Visit http://www.beading-patterns.org/ to find free beading patterns, beading designs, idas and tutorials
Friday, December 22, 2006
Sketching Caricatures
You've seen them at amusement parks, corporate trade shows and even wedding receptions - the caricature artists who sketch a lovely rendition of your pronounced chin or schnoozola. These freelancers aren't just drawing cartoons. It takes some talent and skill to draw caricatures. Whether or not you've always aspired to become a caricature artist or are just now, for the first time entertaining the idea, once you understand a few of the basic keys, you too can draw caricatures. Then maybe you can spend your summers in amusement parts earning money for your renditions of extra large foreheads and Dumbo ears on the vacationers.
There are certain factors to keep in mind before you get out your pencil or chalk and start drawing eyes and noses. Clearly you want your portrait be a reasonable likeness of your subject. You can tell immediately the color of eyes and hair (or lack of hair) and well-defined features. These are the traits you definitely want to bring out in your caricature. It's also important to capture your subject's personality. Ask them what they like to do for fun or passion. Does this person seem bubbly or more laid back? What kind of expression would best suit him/her?
If you want to be a portrait artist, you'll need to recreate features as close to realistic as possible. If you want to be a caricature artist, it is not necessary to be that realistic. Some caricature artists over-exaggerate facial features to the extreme. You need to decide on your style. Are the pointy chins and large cheeks that you draw going to be simply slightly over pronounced? Or will you create them of gargantuan proportion? One other important key element that may set you apart from other caricature artists and wanna-bes, is that degree in which you vary your lines. Mix it up with a combination thin and thick, dark and light. Don't make your caricatures flat and boring.
If you are going to draw more than one subject on a page, start with the shortest person and rather than draw horizontally, stack them vertically on your paper. When you first started drawing in school art class, what was almost always drawn first? Circles for the head, then you filled in the eyes, nose and mouth, right? When you're sketching caricatures you will want to draw the insides of the face first. You may mentally get an idea of where the cheeks and chin will fall on the paper, or even lightly sketch some boundaries, but leave those finishing touches until your drawing is nearly completed.
Start with the eyes, in particular the top eyelids first. Pay attention to how far apart the eyes are, how big or narrow they are and what shape (oval, rounded or other). Generally you will want to move left to right unless you're left handed. Doing so will alleviate smudges. After the eyes, draw in the outside nostrils. Focus on the relationship between the eyes and nostrils. Nostrils are a good place to exaggerate if your subject's nose openings are rather large. This is also a good place to vary your line thickness. The nostril lines are thick but the structure on the tip of the nose requires softer lines.
Next draw a mouth; continue to pay attention to the distance from the nose to the mouth. Study his/her top tip. Is it thin or pouty? Does the person have a wide mouth? This is another good place to over-exaggerate. Up to this point you've drawn in the face in a top to bottom order. Now you're ready to draw in the chin, cheeks, and jaw in that particular order. If you draw the chin first you will know when to end your jaw line. This is another good place to exaggerate here. Exaggerations don't always need to be on the large scale either. If you are drawing a small chin, then fold the bottom lip over the chin! After the chin, draw in the cheeks, if the person has distinct cheek bones and then finally the jaw.
Now you're ready to draw in the ears, then hairline. Your finished caricature will clearly reflect if they have a big forehead or not. Finish up the basic foundation of the caricature by drawing in the hair/head. Give them big hair, if they have it. The outer perimeter of the head is an edge. Therefore, it needs a thick line. Next draw the eyebrows. Do they have thick, bushy eyebrows, or Mona Lisa brows (none)?
Once you've completed the eyebrows, go back and draw in the bottom eyelid and the bags, too, if applicable. Add the eyeballs at the tail end. Move back to the nose and sketch in the bridge of the nose. Then draw in cheek structure. Some people have more than others especially depending on how much fat is on the cheeks. With the exception of the minor details such as freckles, scars, and facial hair, your caricature is almost complete. Add finishing touches and viola!
What do you think? Need more practice? Have at it! You're on your way now!
There are certain factors to keep in mind before you get out your pencil or chalk and start drawing eyes and noses. Clearly you want your portrait be a reasonable likeness of your subject. You can tell immediately the color of eyes and hair (or lack of hair) and well-defined features. These are the traits you definitely want to bring out in your caricature. It's also important to capture your subject's personality. Ask them what they like to do for fun or passion. Does this person seem bubbly or more laid back? What kind of expression would best suit him/her?
If you want to be a portrait artist, you'll need to recreate features as close to realistic as possible. If you want to be a caricature artist, it is not necessary to be that realistic. Some caricature artists over-exaggerate facial features to the extreme. You need to decide on your style. Are the pointy chins and large cheeks that you draw going to be simply slightly over pronounced? Or will you create them of gargantuan proportion? One other important key element that may set you apart from other caricature artists and wanna-bes, is that degree in which you vary your lines. Mix it up with a combination thin and thick, dark and light. Don't make your caricatures flat and boring.
If you are going to draw more than one subject on a page, start with the shortest person and rather than draw horizontally, stack them vertically on your paper. When you first started drawing in school art class, what was almost always drawn first? Circles for the head, then you filled in the eyes, nose and mouth, right? When you're sketching caricatures you will want to draw the insides of the face first. You may mentally get an idea of where the cheeks and chin will fall on the paper, or even lightly sketch some boundaries, but leave those finishing touches until your drawing is nearly completed.
Start with the eyes, in particular the top eyelids first. Pay attention to how far apart the eyes are, how big or narrow they are and what shape (oval, rounded or other). Generally you will want to move left to right unless you're left handed. Doing so will alleviate smudges. After the eyes, draw in the outside nostrils. Focus on the relationship between the eyes and nostrils. Nostrils are a good place to exaggerate if your subject's nose openings are rather large. This is also a good place to vary your line thickness. The nostril lines are thick but the structure on the tip of the nose requires softer lines.
Next draw a mouth; continue to pay attention to the distance from the nose to the mouth. Study his/her top tip. Is it thin or pouty? Does the person have a wide mouth? This is another good place to over-exaggerate. Up to this point you've drawn in the face in a top to bottom order. Now you're ready to draw in the chin, cheeks, and jaw in that particular order. If you draw the chin first you will know when to end your jaw line. This is another good place to exaggerate here. Exaggerations don't always need to be on the large scale either. If you are drawing a small chin, then fold the bottom lip over the chin! After the chin, draw in the cheeks, if the person has distinct cheek bones and then finally the jaw.
Now you're ready to draw in the ears, then hairline. Your finished caricature will clearly reflect if they have a big forehead or not. Finish up the basic foundation of the caricature by drawing in the hair/head. Give them big hair, if they have it. The outer perimeter of the head is an edge. Therefore, it needs a thick line. Next draw the eyebrows. Do they have thick, bushy eyebrows, or Mona Lisa brows (none)?
Once you've completed the eyebrows, go back and draw in the bottom eyelid and the bags, too, if applicable. Add the eyeballs at the tail end. Move back to the nose and sketch in the bridge of the nose. Then draw in cheek structure. Some people have more than others especially depending on how much fat is on the cheeks. With the exception of the minor details such as freckles, scars, and facial hair, your caricature is almost complete. Add finishing touches and viola!
What do you think? Need more practice? Have at it! You're on your way now!
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